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Lacking the sex, grind, and prurient neon of neighbouring Thai destinations, this is an often overlooked sleepy temple town. Snuggled deep in the secretively undulating hills of northwest Laos it was, until the recent past, served by just two alarming modes of travel.

The first was Lao Airlines – a carrier often blacklisted by the US Embassy, the UN, and other companies that prefered their employees whole.

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Riding motorbikes in Southeast Asia always comes with the caveat - wear helmets and definitely don't wobble around on skiddy roads tanked up on an a few bottled of beer. For more information, explore the Timeless Luang Prabang site, which is a good resource and pick up a country overview at Tourism Laos.

▲ top The wonderful thing about Luang Prabang is its scale: there’s plenty to see, but a few morning strolls can take most of it in.

Lao Airlines still flies regularly and many like myself – pursuing this elusive Luang Prabang guide – still brave it without a hitch.

The roads are still winding but they are mostly well kept, and banditry is less in evidence.

Top drawer luxury resorts have arrived too in Luang Prabang.